Gokyo-Dole It is cold and snowed last night; I barely slept. Morning plans to cross Renjo La thwarted by my exhaustion and a feeling we should not do it. Turns out the feeling was right as clouds built in the west and east and south and north all day to turn into another snowstorm. On a long day, up high we would’ve been in it. Glad the mountain did not give us informed consent.

The trek down from Gokyo is remarkable in that the landscape drifts from glacial moraine, high cliffs, snow, few plants through a gradual descent. Lower, boulders take on an older age (mere lichen?). Homes appear more frequently, many earthquake damaged. Undulating stone fences show the movement of land. The path winds on steep valley sides, braided along the slope, each high point marked by a flag, chorten, or strand of flags. The change of elevation was welcome; more homes and guesthouses dot the landscape.

The clouds and wind pick up. Plants grow larger - shrubby rhododendron to the large rhododendron and other desert like plants proliferate the hillsides. The overwhelming sense of being around people and being tired is starting to take effect. Very little solace in these mountains, not in Khumbu in April.